AIC's 52nd Annual Meeting

Custom-dyeing support fabrics to match textiles in need of treatment is standard practice for conservators, however the process can be time-consuming and resource-intensive, requiring multiple rounds of trial and error. The "Test Tube Method," an approach developed at The Met’s Costume Institute, streamlines dye formulation by reducing the number of dye sessions needed to determine the right recipe.

Before dyeing, recipes are approximated in test tubes using ten drops of up to three PRO Sabraset dyes diluted with water to simulate different depths of shade. The tubes are visually compared against the target textile and plotted on a dye triangle to narrow the range of potential recipes. Adjustments are made accordingly. Subsequently, swatches are dyed using the refined recipes and assessed for accuracy against both the target textile and their corresponding test tubes.

Despite some limitations such as the less accurate representation of especially deep colors and the unpredictability of different dyes’ exhaustion rates, the method provides a systematic and sustainable way to achieve accurate colors quickly without an extensive library of dye recipes. It drastically reduces the need for additional chemicals, fabric, and DI water associated with conventional dye processes, aligning with the growing demand for eco-friendly conservation practices in addition to cutting costs. Recorded test tube efforts also create a valuable resource for future projects, further promoting efficiency and sustainability.